Enjoy your time with beautiful places: Countrysite and canal walks Braunston

An early morning walk is a blessing for the whole day.
- Henry David Thoreau

"When you take that step to decide to that are going to walk more, you can take it for granted that you have taken the right step. Walking, as far as the requirements of good health go, can prove to be extremely beneficial. If you are not willing to believe the truth in the statement made, take some time out to observe people who walk quite a lot. You will notice that the people who walk a lot more than the ones who hardly do are a lot healthier than the non-walkers."

I go to nature to be soothed and healed, and to have my senses
put in order.
- John Burroughs

Braunston lies at the junction of the Grand Union and Oxford Canals in a rural setting on the border of Warwickshire and Northamptonshire, between Daventry and Rugby.

The village, on the hill above the canal, thrived for over 150 years on the canal trade - carrying goods from the Midlands to London. Now it is a centre for leisure activities and boasts by far and away the busiest stretch of canal anywhere in the country.

The Wharf now Marina

In the 1780s this part of the village became a hive of activity when the Oxford Canal passed under the turnpike bringing a busy wharf to this important canal/road crossing. There were also canal employees’ houses and a real concentration of pubs and alehouses. The “Ship Inn” stood where Brindley Quays stands now. (At one time the railway bridge passed over the top of it.) The “Bird in Hand” was at the bottom of Old Road where the Marlborough Arms was also shown on a 1790 map. The “George Inn” was opposite the “Ship Inn” on the London Road, as shown on a map dated 1828.“The “George and Dragon “ and the “White Swan” were demolished when the railway came in 1895, and, further down the road, the “Champion Inn” was sold to the Wesleyan Society in 1863. It is now a private house at the end of the row of cottages opposite the Marina entrance. The hut next to it was a Boatman’s Mission.

From the cast-iron bridge one can see the turnover or “rover” bridge, which, in the horse drawn boat days, enabled the towing animal to cross from one side of the canal to the other without the need for uncoupling. The brickwork at the top of the bridge was rounded to avoid chafing the towing rope.

The canal at Braunston, where the Grand Union and Oxford Canals meet

The Braunston Canals

To anyone with an interest in canal lore and legend Braunston is “home”. It is at the very heart of the English canal system – a pivotal point between North and South. Braunston captures the imagination of waterway writers, artists and photographers, and, with its unique environment, is a living historical monument.

The church (dedicated to “All Saints”) was rebuilt in 1849, on the site of the previous church, to accommodate a growing population. The 1841 census records 1469 inhabitants in Braunston Parish. The stone from the earlier 14th century church was used in addition to Kenilworth red sand stone, while the parapets, aisles and tower spire are of grey Weldon stone.

The church, with its fine, majestic crocketed spire rising to 150feet, dominates the surrounding countryside. Views of it can be seen from all directions.

There are carved faces on either side of many of the windows. One striking example on the end of a wall in the north-east corner has its mouth open, perhaps to ward off evil spirits! There are also faces- possibly of Queen Victoria and a monk - on either side of the porch entrance. In the churchyard is the tomb of Admiral Oliver John Jones who died at Westfield House, Braunston on 11th January 1878 aged 64 and so far from the sea he had known!

Braunston Mill - an early 19th century sail- less brick tower mill

Braunston High Street is a miscellany of buildings, old and new, with the old often doing its best to disguise itself, as steep-angled thatched roofs make way for shallower slate and tile, and wooden window frames are replaced with upvc.

Nonetheless, the front elevations of the present-day properties reveal much of historical interest. Several buildings show evidence of blocked doorways and windows, while 'Broadlands' and 'Checkley Close' have a blocked vent beside the front door which used to provide a draught for the fire.

At the top lock stood the Anchor public house, which was demolished after the Second World War. It was originally part of a water mill which fell into disuse when the Grand Junction Canal was built, destroying its water source. The footings of the pub can still be seen by Anchor House. The windmill next to the church in the village was built to compensate the miller.

The “Admiral Nelson” public house, at Lock number 3, pre-dates the canal and was originally a farm building. Cows were milked where the restaurant is today, and there was a greengrocers shop in the skittle room opening onto the lock side. Leslie Morton of Fellows, Morton and Clayton used it as an office in the twilight days of canal carrying. It is said to be haunted by a figure in black, who walks through walls into the adjoining Nelson Cottage.


Pump House - a steam engine was installed by Battom Lock to pump water from the small reservoir just below back up the flight for re-use at the summit

Approaching the tunnel the remains of a wharf are visible. The tunnel is 2042 yards long, 16 feet 6 inches wide and is lined with three layers of brick. It is acknowledged to be a considerable civil engineering achievement even though, because of a miscalculation, there is a “kink” in the tunnel which is well known to boaters. Construction was carried out by candlelight and the circular brick vents were also used to remove spoil by means of a hand winch.

There is no towpath through the tunnel, but there is a bridleway over the top. At one time it was necessary to use official leggers to work the boat through the tunnel. There was a hut for leggers at each end. At one time the fee was one shilling for a loaded boat and 9d for an empty one.