Dominating the heart of the Main Town, St Mary’s is often cited as
the largest brick church in the world. Some 105m long and 66m wide at
the transept, its massive squat tower climbs 78m high into the Gdańsk
cityscape. Begun in 1343, St Mary’s didn’t reach its present proportions
until 1502. Don't miss the 15th-century astronomical clock, placed in
the northern transept, and the church tower (405 steps above the city).
On
first sight, the brightly whitewashed looks almost empty, but walk
around its 30-odd chapels to discover how many outstanding works of art
have been accumulated. In the floor alone, there are about 300
tombstones. In the chapel at the back of the left (northern) aisle is a
replica of Memling’s The Last Judgment – the original is in the National
Museum’s Department of Early Art. The extraordinary Baroque organ
manages enough puff to fill the space with its tones.
The church’s
elephantine size is arresting and you feel even more antlike when you
enter the building. Illuminated with natural light passing through 37
large windows (the biggest is 127 sq metres), the three-naved interior,
topped by an intricate Gothic vault, is bright and spacious. It was
originally covered with frescos, the sparse remains of which are visible
in the far right corner.
The high altar boasts a Gothic polyptych
from the 1510s, with the Coronation of the Virgin depicted in its
central panel. Large as it is, it’s a miniature in this vast space. The
same applies to the 4m crucifix high up on the rood beam.
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